Country number three: Thailand. Heading toward Bangkok from the east, then pedaling south from there. Chumphon, the gateway to the south. Surat Thani, a compact little city. And in Trang and Satun, an Islamic atmosphere drifted through the air — something you would never expect in Thailand. With every country crossed, it is not just the scenery that changes — the smell of the streets and the faiths of the people shift with it.
